SO YOU WANT TO GET STARTED RELOADING? By the amount of phone calls and mail I’ve received lately, there are a lot of members who want to do just that. Now it is very important that we look at some of the little details involved in purchasing equipment and components.

There are many choices in equipment packages that can be purchased, and they really do cover the basic requirements well.

I prefer to keep all the equipment from the same manufacture and would do so if at all possible.

Without the benefit of several catalogs to point out things, let me generalize a bit. First of all you need a press, and depending on who makes it, buy the biggest one they make. Using “enough” press is like using enough gun.

Dies are next and there are three types of rifle dies. The most common is a full length (FL) die set. (This is because it includes a bullet-seating die). Next is the neck sizer, which sizes only the neck but not the rest of the case. Third is a small base die set, which is a FL set made to minimum dimensions, and is usually is required for loading ammo for semi-auto, lever action or pump guns.

You also must have case lube which comes in spray cans or tubes. They are all really pretty good, so just pick and choose and follow the directions.

You also can buy die sets that have special bullet seating dies which help to align the bullet straighter with the case and some have a micrometer adjustment in the die to help regulate the bullets seating depth. These are called Competition Seating Dies.

A scale is a scale, except you have “beam” scales where you must adjust the little weights to figure out the weight or the electronic kind that just reads out the weight in grains or grams.

“Please” buy an electronic scale, they are easier to read and safer, because it does not require you to figure out the little weights on the beam. If they are in the wrong place you can get a false reading.

The same thing goes for powder measures, there are lots of different kinds, and “the more you pay”, odds are, “the better measure you will get.” By that I mean the more consistently it will drop powder charges.

A reloading manual is invaluable, and are most are produced by the bullet manufactures. Pick one and live with it. If you own more than one, and if you then notice on a given load combination, you will find differences in the two books.

Example, one will tell you to use 48 gr of IMR 4064 with a 180 gr bullet in a 30-06 will produce 2,660 fps. The next book will tell you to use 49 gr and it will produce 2,608 fps. Why, do you ask, does more powder produces less velocity? It could be that one was tested in a new 24” barrel and the other was shot in a “used” 22” barrel. One could have been a production barrel and the other a custom barrel. Just about any change in specs will give you different results. That is why they tell you to always start working on any given load with a 10% powder reduction and work up from there.

A case trimmer is a wonderful thing to have too, but again they are all different. Some turn the little cutter with a crank, and others have a motor built into it.

Calipers are used to measure the overall length of the case or cartridge and can be had from a $20 plastic one to a $100+ stainless steel machinist tool. Try to get one with a digital readout, as it is quicker and safer to read. The dial kind are a bit harder to read, because you must judge where the needle (indicator) is rather than just read off the number.

If you are trying to set up to load pistol, (or high volume rifle), you might want to get a progressive turret type press, to rapidly load the ammo. Again each manufacturer has a different model to choose from. Also, pistol dies come with either regular dies, or carbide dies,

Usually, the press you buy will have the capability of seating primers, but a separate priming tool is very nice. Lots of choices there too. Maybe you can buy one later after you see how things are going, and how much room you still have on your bench, because all these accessories take up space.

In case cleaners, there are choices of tumbler or vibrators, and the media for cleaning can be corncobs or walnut shells. They also work real nice for cleaning the lube off the cases after resizing.

Also there are several small and misc. tools that are helpful. They are primer pocket cleaners and chamfering tools.

As you can see, there are so many choices that even the experienced reloader has trouble deciding what to buy. Try to look at several kinds, and ask your friends if you can look at their bench and equipment before deciding. Go slow, and remember, this equipment does not wear out, so buy carefully, because you will have it for a long time. I know, as I have the same press today that I bought 40 years ago.

We have now only gotten started your equipment. We still need to purchase Powder, Primers, and Bullets.

The choices in Powder are great, as are a lot of components. What kind of powder you purchase is totally dependant on what caliber and bullet weight you are going to reload.

Some powders are only for Pistols and some are only for Rifles. Some are “fast” burning, and some are “slow” and some in between.

For Rifle, look in the Reloading Manual you purchased earlier, and see what powders are recommended for the caliber and bullet weight you are planning on reloading. There will be several choices, so talk with the people where you will purchase you first powder to have them help you.

Primers are much the same with lots of choices. Again you have to decide what caliber you are reloading and then purchase the correct Primers. Look in the Reloading Manual again for requirements and suggestions.

Bullets will certainly give you a nightmare. There are so many choices it will dazzle you. Each caliber will have a wide variety of bullets weight and styles. Decide on what you want the bullet to do, and then choose from there.

All this time we are assuming that you have a collection of once fired brass. New brass can be purchased, but if you hang around the rifle range very much, you will pick up plenty.

Speaking of brass from the Range, be sure and run it through your case cleaner or before resizing it. If you just put some lube on it, and start resizing it, the dust and dirt on the cases will surely ruin your nice new dies.

Sort all brass you accumulate into separate groups, by manufacturer, nickel vs. brass etc.

If you have any particular questions, feel free to contact Terry via e-mail at tblauwkamp@superior-sales.com